Sylvester Wahid: Spices and Passions, from Pakistan to Paris
It all started when Sylvester's father enlisted in a foreign legion, ported all his family to France from Pakistan, seeking a better life for his four children. Even not being able to speak French, Sylvestre, like his brothers and sisters, has been "forced" to change his name into the French to forget all about Pakistan and integrate into life in the new country. At that time, Sylvester's father ran a restaurant, so he and his brother Jonathan spent all their time there, and so Sylvester acquired a passion for cuisine. During his already professional career, he has managed to work in Paris, New York, Les Baux-de-Provence with such maîtres as Alain Ducasse and Jean-André Choral, twice being awarded 2 Michelin stars and other countless awards. Today, Sylvestre is planning to open his own restaurant and remains one of the most emblematic chefs of France and Europe.
Sylvestre, you come from Pakistan and grow up in France. How does this cultural mix influence your cuisine?
I always say that my cuisine can be described as the Mediterranean, where the ingredient, the freshest possible, is the key element. I don't like long and difficult preparations, exaggerated techniques. The freshness of spices and aromatic herbs is something I like about Pakistan's cuisine and implement it to my cooking style of today. My cuisine is not "peppery" but "spicy."
I would say that my cuisine is very instinctive too; it could be different: once it may be simple, another time - more elaborated, depending on the occasion and an idea.
Are there any plates which port you back to your childhood?
Oh yes, it would be the millefeuille. Crêpe suzette or crème au chocolat, cooked by my dad. He always used to cook French cuisine and my mother - Pakistan one. It was a nice mix.
What is the most precious piece of advice your parents gave you?
Apart from being respectful with everyone, they always told me to simply love people.
What allows you to stay positive? It seems that a smile is always on your face.
You know, when I remember that I was born in a small village in Pakistan and now I live here, in France, having my own house, professional recognition and all I want, I feel lucky. I am simply thankful for life.
What are the sides of your character that allowed you to succeed in your career?
I am working two times more, two times efficiently, and faster than others. Also, being generous and always having respect for others. My ability to have empathy. Perseverance.
Have you always been treated with respect in your profession? France has always been famous for its severe atmosphere in restaurant kitchens with, sometimes, an arrogant and bossy approach to the young chefs.
Absolutely always. I have always shown exemplary skills and, like this, deserved respect and appreciation. And I always wanted to be integrated, living in another country, and did all for that. Respect pays back with respect.
Speaking about your profession. Many young chefs start their careers with stages at "grand restaurants." Is that ethically correct to assume people for "free of charge" stages?
I guess it's impossible and also too dishonest to make people work for you a whole day long on a non-refundable basis. You have to understand that physically it's too exhausting and also ethically not so correct. As a person who came from another country, I say it worked a lot and knows what it means. But at the same time, I always hope to find those young chefs who do not only look at the clock, counting hours to come back home, but those who have "Plaisir de travailler" - the pleasure of working, and there are not so many, unfortunately.
Does the Michelin star mean a lot to you?
My priority is my team and my clients, not the star. Regardless that if it comes, it's always a pleasure.
Last year your restaurant was closed, and you lost 2 Michelin stars. How did it feel?
It was so sad, and you even can't imagine. It was not so difficult to accept it, as there was no choice. Life has many chapters, the saddest and the happiest ones, and you always have to turn them.
Have you dreamt or wanted to be famous? For instance, at the very beginning of your career.
No, it was never a dream of mine. And, normally, when you chase something, you never catch it. Fame is not something you can find occasionally, but something which comes to you when you truly deserve it.
What could be your mission in life? At least, in a professional one.
Maybe thanks to my empathy, but I always think about people in the first place. So, what is important to me to do in this life? Evolve me and help my team grow. That's my mission. I don't like giving advice, I prefer to set an example, and I would like to do it.
Would you agree that you're a big dreamer and that allowed you to go so far away? As dreams were always your guideline in life.
Oh, I am absolutely a dreamer! It's very important to have a dream and an ambition, a project in life. All that will make you grow and will lead you there where you want to be. Life is made of dreams and projects, they are diverse in different stages of life, but it's crucial to have them.
What is cooking for you?
For me, being a chef and cooking is the act of love and care, and I feel happy to be able to cook and, by doing this, bring joy to the people.
