Dame Zandra Rhodes On Freddie Mercury And The 1970s Zeitgeist
Legendary British designer Zandra Rhodes has been creating beautiful and extravagant clothes since the late 1960s. Throughout her journey, she has worked with people such as Princess Diana, Marc Bolan and Diana Ross. “I have had a very exciting life. And I suppose therefore it keeps me pink-haired and younger.” I was very fortunate to talk to her about fashion, the groovy 70s and her first time meeting a certain then-unknown rock group called Queen.
"Freddie was very much his own person. And he probably was the guiding light."
Freddie Mercury’s enchanting voice, captivating stage presence and enormous legacy continue to inspire. A legend both on and off the screen, the frontman of Queen had an extensive wardrobe.
In the late 60s and early 70s, Zandra Rhodes was still teaching textile design, but was beginning to gain recognition on a global scale in magazines such as Vogue. She recollects that it was an era when “the youth were not yet in rebellion”. Just before the appearance of the punk scene, it was a time for major experimentation. Musicians such as David Bowie and Queen were soon set to overtake the mainstream Beatles and Stones. Zandra recalls experimenting with glitter and colour makeup (which was much harder to obtain back then), wearing white go-go boots and romantic shawls.
This was the cultural backdrop when Zandra made the iconic pleated white top for Freddie. Her studio near Royal Oak when Queen called her up was more of a workroom and had no changing rooms during the daytime. She remembers wearing a long caftan and a turban or feathers in her hair.
“Freddie came up these three flights of rickety stairs to my attic where I was making the clothes. I then pulled things off the rail and said to Freddie: 'Try them on and move around the room and see how you feel.' I like to try and work with the artist to see that they feel wonderful.” Zandra saw her designs in action with extravagant painter Duggie Fields when the band sent her tickets for a performance at Earl’s Court.
The top that Freddie chose was originally an idea for a wedding dress, but looked majestic on the stage. Zandra discusses how Freddie’s experience selling clothes in High Kensington gave him a knack for picking garments: “He was aware of the feeling and effect of different fabrics, of movement, and he was able to do things which I think were quite wonderful.” Freddie approached fashion in a playful way, going through periods of drastically different styles. His bold looks cemented his place in the fashion hall of fame.
The impact of Freddie Mercury was immense: his personality seemed to shine through in everything he did - from his lyrics to his performances to the clothes he meticulously chose. Zandra comments on the singer’s fashion: “He (Freddie) was a person that looked great when he was dressed up. If a band goes to the top, they are going to be image makers. Their image is going to be absorbed by their audience.”
Zandra Rhodes along with her charity founded in 2020 The Zandra Rhodes Charitable Foundation are currently organising the noteworthy collection of clothes she has made to send to museums: “I'm cataloguing the clothes and trying to fit in the memories.” The senses that are triggered by clothes - the look, the feeling, even the smell of the material - can be deeply evocative and jog long-forgotten details.
This is why Sotheby’s exhibition dedicated to Freddie Mercury is a big hit: masses of people go to see glimpses of the great singer in his iconic garments. Freddie’s experimental and flamboyant styles hold a sliver of history. So to all lovers of fashion and art: go see Sotheby’s exposition before it closes on the 5th of September!
Cover image by Douglas Puddifoot
