PFW: Chanel’s Сinematic Silhouettes

"Deauville is where everything began for the House. 1912, the year of its hat boutique and very quickly the first clothes with a visionary, radical style appeared. The beginnings of Gabrielle Chanel are a story that is close to my heart" , confides Virginie Viard in the preamble to the Chanel fall-winter 2024-25 fashion show . "For this collection, we have recreated the Planches de Deauville. Giant screens broadcast long romantic silhouettes which wander in the light of dawn, until the setting sun." Androgynous and cinematic, this collection draws its femininity from Gabrielle Chanel 's wardrobe and its masculinity from the cozy elegance of winters by the sea ... But not only that. The artistic director also echoes the silhouette of David Bowie, the magnetism of the stars walking on the sand, like Anouk Aimée - great friend of Gabrielle Chanel -, the familiar figures from the 20s to the 70s, whose wardrobe seems to fit so well answer. We then find peacoats with broad shoulders, long belted dressing gown-style coats worn over tweed suits - box-pleated skirts, culottes or cropped trousers -, trousers with bridges or with tightening tabs in the back, but also large marine knitwear on which the landscapes of Deauville are represented, silk blouses with sailor collars printed with chevrons, low-cut tops with ruffles, jumpsuits and negligees evoking, through their lightness, the movement of waves and the blowing of the wind. The accessories perfect the looks: the House's iconic bags are omnipresent, as well as the wide pastel hats, the colorful silk scarves, the high boots and the high-heeled thigh-high boots in shearling.

“It’s a very warm collection, with the superposition of materials, colors and volumes. It pays homage to Deauville, this legendary place where Gabrielle Chanel met her destiny.” The palette borrows its bright or pastel tones of pink, mauve, orange and pale blue from the changing colors of the Deauville sky, to which are added the browns and gold of the lamés. 35mm film, cinema tickets, the prints pay homage to the city of the 7th art , the American Cinema Festival and A Man and a Woman by Claude Lelouch to which the film by Inez and Vinoodh which opens the parade — with Penélope Cruz and Brad Pitt as guest stars — pays homage.