Oksana Karavanska: "Ethnic Style is the Injection That Helps in Lack of Inspiration."
Oksana Karavanska is among fashion designers who actively use ethnic elements in their collections. She is one of the few Ukrainian fashion designers working in Haute Couture.
Oksana, what made your inspiration to use ethnic motives in your collection?
Ironically, I was considered to be an ethnic designer almost from the start of my career. Probably because my inspirations are Ukrainian: traditions, music, books, mountains. I always use embroideries in my work, not just traditional, but so much handicraft. Moreover, my fashion shows are accompanied by soundtracks of Ukrainian composers and performers. Maybe that's why "ethnic," but I wasn't very impressed by this tendency in general. Once, I've decided to create a collection that is not connected to national traditions. It was dedicated to avant-garde artists, particularly to Kashmir Malevich, who lived and worked in Kyiv. But it didn't change the perception of me as a designer.
Then I've decided to change myself by creating a collection inspired by Ukrainian traditional embroidery. I've realized that Ukrainian costume is so diverse. It has so many various ornaments, colors, and details, so you can draw ideas from it infinitely. And I aimed to continue the tradition when a great-grandmother embroidered a shirt as an inheritance with exceptional value. It was so beautiful and original, so you could exhibit it in museums or wear it on very special occasions. That's how "Vyshyvanka Couture" was born. I desired to translate the ancient cultural inheritance into true fashion. It was realized to be much more tricky than to sew traditional blouses- vyshyvankas, but much more fascinatingly!
Could you explain how to create an ethical look without transforming it into a traditional costume?
The easiest and the most effective way you don't have a very diverse wardrobe is to get very wonderful heavy beads. It can go even with the basic white t-shirt. If you have an embroidered blouse, you can wear it with jeans. It can be such a splendid combination! If you are inert to think, just buy a dress. It can be sufficient.
Some time has passed after you've started to use ethnic in your collections. Have you thought that it would become so popular?
I didn't think about it intentionally, but it's cool that I turned on the peak of this trend. All the ideas fly around. We just collect them. If you catch it quickly - you win. Ethnic style is one of the heaviest influences in fashion. The appeal to it during last years is not random. Office bundling in big cities is generating the demand for freedom and bright emotions. For example, boho style is a mix of ethnic, hippy, and comfort.
My first ethnic collection was shown in New York in The National Arts Club. We had to surprise, so I converted my exploration of embroideries and ancient Ukrainian costume design into modernity. And I got it! Americans were amazed by Ukrainian haute couture. Japanese people were the most impressed as they are experienced in appreciating extraordinary designs. I returned home very inspired with the precise plan to continue the exclusive ethnic Ukrainian line.
Almost at the same time, Vita Kin's brand appeared, where ethnic embroidery was adapted into large bright ornaments, and people all around the world wore them for all different occasions. It provoked the boom for vyshyvanka for a couple of years. Moreover, two years ago, Ukrainian vyshyvanka was the most significant trend of the year.
How did you react that world-famous designers such as Valentino and Jean Paul Gaultier began to create collections based on Ukrainian national motives? Maybe you favorited some of them?
I was impressed by MaxMara. They used the so-called "borshchivka": black volumed woolen embroidery and competently placed it onto a contemporary dress. Looked amazing! To be honest, a lot of brands interpret ethnic style, especially in Haute Couture. Gaultier did that after visiting The National Costume Museum during his visit to Ukraine. Without delving deeply, with ease and softness, he created a mix of significant sentimental elements. Gaultier was the one who complimented ethnic with epatage, сomedy, and postmodern play by blending gipsy skirts with Hutsul vest, "ushanka" hat, and embroidered blouses. His collections were dedicated to so many nationalities: Jewish, Mongolian, Middle East, Chinese, and, of course, Japanese. Gaultier created an Eskimo jumper embroidered with beads, fur, and feathers.
Brands like Christian Dior, Kenzo, Galliano, Dries van Noten explicated ethnic as a combination of African, Middle Eastern, Chinese national motives with various ornaments like check or leopard print. They designed a multipurpose product not dependent on gender identity, nationality, age, or completion.
Indian culture and Muslim patterns influence fashion a lot. Even Chanel mixed their signature style with Middle Eastern and Arabic motives.
Can it be considered plagiarism?
There was a story when vyshyvankas were already at the peak of popularity. Isabel Marant actually copied every millimeter of a modern Latin American embroidered cloth embellished by a local artist based on contemporary motives. It was not a big issue, more like an unpleasant situation. People discussed a lot. You can call it "plagiarism," but you know, the border between plagiarism and creativity is so delicate. Carps don't really matter. The result appeared to be a knockout.
This historical inspiration can be treated by designer lack of inspiration?
I don't think it's about a lack of ideas, rather about beautiful historical, ethnic items you can't indifferently pass through. I am sure she didn't intentionally investigate this topic. It looks like a coincidence. She could accidentally see exquisite Latin American embroidered shirts during her trips, sailing on the boat or just on the Internet, and inspired by it because it is so admirable. I consider ethnic style as the "injection" that helps in the lack of creativity!
Worlds fashionistas treat ethnic style differently. Some keep up, and some don't. How's Ukrainian girls' attitude towards it?
Generally, they wear what is so-called "classic" embroidery in Ukraine or what they can find in the mass market. There are so many plagiarisms about Vita Kin, for example, that forge both expensive and regular brands. But many people wear Ukrainian vyshyvanka as the national costume and love it.
Do you think this trend would be actual for a long time?
In my opinion, a regular embroidered shirt is exhausted for the mass consumer. Such production doesn't lead anywhere. If a brand aims to develop these themes, I suggest thinking about styling. Since a standard embroidered shirt remains traditional as an identical symbol of Ukraine, that's why a lot of people buy it as a souvenir. Probably the majority has already bought it, so there is no point in producing it endlessly. I make something completely different, more like an addition to the contemporary look. Nevertheless, embroidered shirts still exist, and my clients always demand them as a future generation's inheritance. They want something original and handicrafts in their wardrobes.
