The usual formats are not available, the old schedule is out of date. Designers are looking for new ways, updating dates – shows must go on.
Over the digital presentation format that many designers have chosen, Jonathan Anderson, Creative Director of LOEWE, has chosen to publish his own newspaper. On the front page of the limited edition, the loud statement “THE LOEWE SHOW HAS BEEN CANCELED”.
“The show has been canceled” as a narrative backdrop to the collection and this idea of the headline. “J. Anderson
The choice of this format is also associated with the desire to go beyond the fashion-oriented audience, becoming a daily newspaper covering what is happening in the present moment, with the support of French Le Figaro and Le Monde, Spanish El Mundo of Spain, English The Times of London, American The New York Times and the Japanese The Asahi Shimbun.
I was trying to work on any media that was not digital and which was going to take the show to a mass audience. Now, if you pick up a newspaper somewhere – well, even if you don’t want it, you’re getting it.
© LOEWE
Packed in a striking laser-engraved metal case with a paper-knife in a bright case, the newspaper presents Jonathan Anderson’s Fall / Winter collection for LOEWE and the first chapter of a new novel by the acclaimed American writer and one of the best-selling authors of all time, Daniel Steele ‘The Affair’. This move is a tribute to the literary traditions of the 19th century when works of art were published in series in newspapers.
I just thought it was nice to put a literary backdrop to the collection like something where that kind of immediacy that you get when you start reading a novel.
© LOEWE
Filming with the unifying factor of yellow took place in different locations: Le Train Bleu restaurant in Paris, a private club on the Champs Elysees, and the Loewe office. Famous Danish top model Freya Beha demonstrated the new collection through the lens of Japanese photographer Fumiko Imano.
In a video posted on the official Loewe Youtube channel, Jonathan Anderson, sitting on an impressive pile of newspapers, to the sound of a printing press, comments on his collection.
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LOEWE Fall Winter 2021 Women’s collection walkthrough with Jonathan Anderson
The mood of the collection is playful and cheerful. Vibrant acrylic colors are cleverly paired with abstract silhouettes, giant tassels, fringe, and appliqué.
© LOEWE
Zig-zag prints and oversized buckles complement the drapery. The latter is a separate love of Jonathan Anderson and is found throughout the collection – in clothes, accessories, and shoes.
“I’ve always been fascinated by buckles on 17th century and 18th-century shoes. And I liked this idea that then they became de-embossed by wrapping the leather around it.”
© LOEWE
The collection is dominated by geometry. Sinuous lines alternate with straight lines, and accessories dissolve into surfaces.
© LOEWE
Graphic elements accentuate the pragmatism of the form, and the cutouts hint at sex appeal.
© LOEWE
Along with the new bags – Flamenco and Goya, which Jonathan dubbed “the new icon” – the designer presented the famous Amazona archive bag, which became famous in the 70s, in a new interpretation. It is available in the signature jacquard pattern and in a variety of color variations.
© LOEWE
In addition to shoes with a recognizable buckle, shoes on a massive platform draw attention to themselves. While contrasting with more graceful outfits, she subtly complements them.